Reviews

A Dragon Apparent: Travels in Cambodia, Laos & Vietnam by Norman Lewis

paul_cornelius's review against another edition

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4.0

At the beginning of A Dragon Apparent, Norman Lewis relates that he is advised to visit Indochina immediately if he has any wish to see the tribal people and their culture before they vanish forever. It was good advice. Lewis traveled there in early 1950, just as the fall of China to Mao's Communist forces was making an impact on the war between the French and the nationalists of Indochina, especially the Viet Minh, although Lewis also documents the role of the Issaraks in Cambodia (and even Laos) as well as the Cao Dai in Vietnam.

Most of Lewis' travels, however, focus on the minority tribes in Indochina. The greatest portion of the book is spent on the tribes of Mois (Dagar) in the Central Highlands of Vietnam. But there is also an intriguing chapter on the Meo (Hmong) of Laos. In both instances, these tribes of fiercely independent people were caught between the forces of dehumanizing colonialism, on one hand, and a Communist movement, on the other, that Lewis does not hesitate to compare to Nazi Germany. The Mois are sold into virtual slavery, to be worked to death on French plantations. And because they refuse to accede to the Communist ways that would trample their traditional way of life, the Viet Minh also mark them for extermination. The Meo, who may have been the most rugged of individualists in all of Indochina, meanwhile, come in for respect for their tenacity but criticism of their way of life in denuding the countryside of all vegetation in slash and burn agriculture.

Lewis is sympathetic, albeit somewhat paternalistic, in his attitude. It was 1950, after all. Nearly all the secondary characters Lewis interviews and describes are French officials or colonials. But the last chapter is devoted to Lewis' expedition into Viet Minh territory. His discussions with them clearly frighten him. They are described as putting into place a totalitarian system of life entirely too similar to Hitler's Strength through Joy program--these are Lewis' very words. But the book ends with Lewis recognizing that the end is in sight for France in Indochina. And this was four years before Dien Bien Phu and the final defeat of the French, forcing them out of the region once and for all.

This book is an historical document of a part of Southeast Asia about to be changed forever. Nevertheless, Lewis was also able to note the unique and, for him, terribly valuable ways of life about to disappear. His travels on roads into remote villages describe a landscape just barely in touch with the twentieth century. In particular, his description of the road convoy necessary to reach Vang Vieng from Vientiane tells of almost impassable valleys, washed out bridges, and narrow mountain roads that drop away into vast chasms. Anyone travelling there, today, of course, will find a much improved "highway," although it is still dangerous, filled with rock slides, rampaging rivers in rainy season, and sheer drops on switchback after switchback after switchback, snaking up and down the mountains.

Yet Lewis the travel writer was more akin to an explorer than what passes for travel writing these days. No GPS for him. No laptops reserving a cozy air conditioned room at the, now, tourist-laden venue of Vang Vieng. No help if shot by rebels, bandits, or colonial troops. No medical rescue for broken bones, malaria, or dysentery. Only in reading this book do you realize what changes have come over the region in the past almost seven decades. Where only the most fearless and adventurous would once have gone, there is now the millennial backpacker outfitted in all his technological splendor. It's a different world.

harishankar's review against another edition

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3.0

It's 1951. Most of Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos (together called Indo-China) is under French colonial influence and the rest under Communist supported Viet Minh rule. There's a full blown war going on between the French and the Viet-Minh. Three more years till France officially quits Indochina and four more years till the 19 year long Vietnam War starts. That's when Norman Lewis decided to visit the place.
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The author is British born journalist, and so he succeeded in being objective and unbiased most of the time. But he went so far to be unbiased, that his writing felt emotionally detached and unempathetic. He also didn't do a very good job describing places and his experiences. I couldn't picture things very well, and it was really irksome to read the book.
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But he goes out of his way to give the readers information, and he travelled as far into the country as he could possibly go. To give a wholesome picture he even contacts the Viet-Minh, ventures into the Viet-Minh controlled territory and lives with them for a little while.
It was fascinating to read about the various tribes in the area and their weird (to us) practices. I also liked reading about the spread of different faiths in the region: Hinduism, Buddhism and Christianity, and finally Communism too.

harishankar's review

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3.0

It's 1951. Most of Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos (together called Indo-China) is under French colonial influence and the rest under Communist supported Viet Minh rule. There's a full blown war going on between the French and the Viet-Minh. Three more years till France officially quits Indochina and four more years till the 19 year long Vietnam War starts. That's when Norman Lewis decided to visit the place.
.
The author is British born journalist, and so he succeeded in being objective and unbiased most of the time. But he went so far to be unbiased, that his writing felt emotionally detached and unempathetic. He also didn't do a very good job describing places and his experiences. I couldn't picture things very well, and it was really irksome to read the book.
.
But he goes out of his way to give the readers information, and he travelled as far into the country as he could possibly go. To give a wholesome picture he even contacts the Viet-Minh, ventures into the Viet-Minh controlled territory and lives with them for a little while.
It was fascinating to read about the various tribes in the area and their weird (to us) practices. I also liked reading about the spread of different faiths in the region: Hinduism, Buddhism and Christianity, and finally Communism too.

leymut's review

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4.0

Great companion during my travels in Vietnam and Cambodia, made me yearn for visiting Laos as well. A solid 4*, though some passages are brilliantly written and hilarious.
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