Reviews

The Last Train to Zona Verde: My Ultimate African Safari by Paul Theroux

liberrydude's review against another edition

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5.0

No iron roosters or express trains here. A very misleading title and not the book he intended to write when he started his trip. Probably one of his best books and it's not a happy book. You have to admire him, a 70 year old, taking on a trip alone like this. No trains in this one despite the title-it's the trip not taken-it's all by bus and car. Theroux is quite opinionated, some would say elitist at times-loathes foreign aid, noble Bushmen image, etc... He stays in opulent digs occasionally while mocking himself and others who experience Africa through luxury safaris. But he's more than capable of holding his own in the shanty towns. Lots of soulful reflections on travel, Africa, and himself. He meets some great people, three of whom die during the course of his trip and during the writing of the book. He covers three countries (four if you count the sliver of time and land he was in Botswana): South Africa, Namibia, and Angola. The Zona Verde is the bush-the jungle-the rural Africa. He has a plan but he loves circumstance too and revels in those unforeseen moments of travel when he meets an astonishing person or sees something extraordinary. So many great insightful lines in this book and some are candid and frank, especially about the country of Angola. He's probably persona non grata for life there now. I just watched Anthony Bourdain's CNN show on the Congo. You get a feel for how much parts of Africa are so messed up. The bush is a hard life but it's better than living in a city and that's
the problem with Africa and the world-the exodus of the rural have-nots to mega cities where they have even less-only hope. However, Theroux in his book paints an even better picture with words. In his chapter, "This is What the World Will Look Like When It Ends" the dystopia is alive and well and flourishing in Luanda, Angola. Another chapter has the title, "The Frontier of Bad Karma." Circumstances like terrorism prevented Theroux from finishing his trip to his planned destination, Timbuktu, and it is an experienced traveler who knows when to say when. Even though this trip might be considered a disappointment by some it was another life affirming experience for a guy who had seen everything and done everything but always knows there's something new over the horizon.

alundeberg's review against another edition

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5.0

This is not your typical heartwarming cultural comedy of errors travel memoir; it sobering, depressing, and at points, downright frightening. Theroux journeys through South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, and Angola to see how much Africa has changed in the ten years he was there last. The verdict? He cuts his trip short. Africa has always been a land of extremes and today it is even more so. There are pricey resorts where people can stay with a herd of elephants, but all of the elephants are in captivity-- not roaming free. Wealthy neighborhoods surrounded by slums and a rising business of slum tourism. Great disparities of racial equality. The iconic lush African landscape juxtaposed against post-apocalyptic cities and villages where electricity and running water are intermittent. English teachers that cannot tell the difference between fiction and nonfiction. The greatest disparity of all is Angola, a country that brings in 1 BILLION dollars every five days from its oil revenue, but about 90% of its population is unemployed and in poverty. While there are glimmers of hope, they are only mere glimmers that are eclipsed by the great socio-political movements of corrupt governments and an uneducated people. Theroux tackles many of the problems facing Africa, looking for answers. Often no answers arise. This is not an easy book to read. It is a cautionary tale of how corruption and economic inequality can destroy a land and its people.

deaglanobriain's review

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1.0

A journey that could have resulted in a fascinating and insightful telling, but spoiled by the author's tedious moaning about his day-to-day hardships and supercilious survey of all he meets. An example of the personalised, anecdotal travelogue genre that National Geographic does so well, but in Theroux's hands in this book badly crafted and delivered without humour or style. The author repeatedly asks a rhetorical question: 'Why am I here?' Indeed.

victor_dan's review against another edition

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adventurous informative

4.0

geirertzgaard's review against another edition

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4.0

De klager over at Theroux er en sutrekopp og at han har et alt for svartsynt bilde av utviklingen i Afrika. Men greia er at han i motsetning til mange eksperter ikke reiser businessklasse eller kjører hvite landcruisere. I stedet reiser han med lokaltransport, bor der vanlige afrikanere bor og reagerer kraftig mot den fornedrede virkeligheten som både er helt unødvendig og urettferdig. Kritikken er ikke mot Afrika men mot de få som har gravd til seg av fellesskapets goder. Og det har han jo helt rett i - eller hva sier dere, STATOIL?

Han blir ofte spurt på turen om å gi bøker til de boktomme bibliotekene på skoler han besøker. Han svarer alltid det samme: hvorfor spør dere meg? Spør heller den styrtrike politikeren inne i Luanda som har mer enn nok penger å bidra med.

Dette sitatet formidler grunnholdningen til Theroux i denne boken, og jeg vil forsvare hans sinne. Det springer ut fra en dyp kjærlighet til et kontinent han kjenner bedre enn de fleste av oss.

I ask the political economists and the moralists if they have ever calculated the number of individuals who must be condemned to misery, overwork, demoralisation, infamy, rank ignorance, overwhelming misfortune  and utter penury to produce one rich man.

- João Baptista da Silva de Almeida Garrett, sitert hos José Saramego

Jeg vet at en del kritiserer Theroux for hans syn på Afrika. Men hans syn er ikke synet av hverdagsmenneskene, men av gribbene i mange fasonger som suger beinmargen ut av det rikeste kontinentet.

debbiecuddy's review against another edition

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4.0

BOTNS Bingo 2015-Travel-Paul Theroux has been my favorite travel writer for several years. It was interesting to see how he experienced travel in some of the world's poorest and most disorganized places now as compared to several years ago. While I'm glad I read this book, I found much of it to be sad. It gives one a lot to think about.

leitheoirrialta's review against another edition

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4.0

It's typical Theroux, thought-provoking and interesting, though he comes across as grumpier than ever. Definitely worth reading.

mostrengo's review

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adventurous informative tense medium-paced

4.75

dmahanty's review against another edition

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3.0

Nonfiction... Paul Theroux decided to make possible his last trip to Africa and travel overland from Cape Town, South Africa and travel north. He gets as far as Angola, and along the way describes the poverty, corruption, and slum life. Kind of a downer.

bobbo49's review against another edition

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4.0

Ten years ago I read Dark Star Safari, and loved how it captured the essence of both Egypt and South Africa as I understood them from my own travels, as well as the accurate descriptions of east Africa as I had understood it from other readings. This is a much more difficult read, though written with all of the passion that Theroux always seems to capture. Theroux is never a typical traveler or observer, nor does he have any desire to be.

He starts a planned overland trip north on the west coast from South Africa to Mali by exploring the (somewhat improving) mass slum camps of Capetown (which we briefly explored in 2003), then traveling to the coast and north of Namibia, where he begins to experience the breadth and depth of true rural poverty, and the depredation and crime that mark its boundaries. Finally, Theroux enters Angola, where civilization as he (and most of us, even experienced travlers) believe to know it is almost nonexistent. He is blunt in his criticism of the colonial and slave and capitalist systems that created the present societies, and equally so in his angry words for the current corrupt governmental and economic systems (including overwhelming Chinese investment and worker intrusion that is now common throughout the third world) that are destroying native populations and ways of life but offering no viable or sustainable replacements. In the end, he cuts his planned trip short after Angola, deciding that to travel further into the Congo, Namibia, Mali as he intended (particularly with Boko Haram everywhere) would serve no further purpose: he has experienced too much of eastern Africa's reality already. In all, a very grim portrait of a significant part of the African continent in the second decade of the twenty-first century.