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Show Me the Magic: Travels Round Benin by Taxi by Annie Caulfield

clarereadstheworld's review

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4.0

 To be completely honest, this book sadly is written by a white British author, and not an author from Benin. I tried really hard to find a book from a Beninese author, but nothing was available, so I settled for Caulfield. I realise this is problematic in a time when so much effort is put into amplifying Own Voices, and rightly so, but as a one off change on a tour reading books from literally every country around the world, I decided I could live with it. Overall, I'm quite happy with my choice, as I feel that the Beninese are given a voice through Isidore and the many other locals Caulfield meets throughout her travels. This is very much a book which focuses on the Beninese, and portrays them fairly and honestly.
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Caulfield gives very little background on herself, all I learnt about her from the book is that she's a British author who travelled around Benin to research a book. Early on in her trip she meets Isidore, a taxi driver who takes her under his wing, and makes it his mission to show her everything there is to see in Benin. I absolutely love Isidore, he is a strong willed man, who works hard to provide for his two sons after his wife left them. He has strong belief in gri-gri, witchcraft and vodou, which Caulfield sometimes indulges, sometimes challenges. Caulfield often offers her own 'logical' explanation for some of Isidore's myths and tales, which was a bit of a shame, because it took some of the magic away.
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Over two separate trips the pair visit almost every corner of Benin, from mental asylums in the capital, to the Palaces of rural kings, nothing is left unvisited. Caulfield is uncomfortably treated as VIP and gets the best of everything everywhere she goes because she is white. Isidore also sometimes plays up the importance of this white visitor to gain access to certain privileges, but Caulfield does at least acknowledge her privilege and feel uneasy about it at times... Even if that doesn't stop her enjoying the perks of being a white woman in an African country which receives little white tourism. 

I appreciated that while Caulfield did feel the need to give explanations for some of Isidore's stories of witchcraft, she did not take a sort of 'white savoir' approach. She acknowledged the limits of Western ideas too, and did not present western education and Western methods as a solution to the problems faced by the Beninese. She was quite honest about her own, and western limitations, and clearly acknowledged where she had been rude or disrespectful by asking inappropriate questions, or refusing to believe something important to Isidore or the Beninese. I learnt so much about the country through her writing. It's definitely no substitute for a Beninese author, but if you're looking for a good introduction to the country, look no further! 
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