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musicsaves's review against another edition
5.0
FIRST LINE REVIEW: "I had never thought of myself as a sheltered child." Hardly! This really amazing memoir of a most "unsheltered" child whose parents let him lead the surfer's life, with all of its dangers, delves deeply into so much more than catching the next big wave (though that is a HUGE part of the book.) Rather, this feels like a serious exploration of life's vagaries and the importance of pursuing passions while you can...living this one life as fully as possible because, as Finnegan reveals in one of the most devastatingly true sentences I've ever read: "You have to hate how the world goes on." Meaning that, when we're gone, the world will simply go on. Yes, I, too, hate that. But I also live in the knowledge of that reality. So live well!
juliamcneill's review against another edition
5.0
A perfect memoir. The male Joan Didion. Stunning! No notes.
miles_above's review against another edition
4.0
3.7/5
It drags a bit at times and felt a bit too long but overall I enjoyed it.
It drags a bit at times and felt a bit too long but overall I enjoyed it.
mongert's review against another edition
4.0
I loved this book. William Finnegan is a very clean writer. I read and re-read his sentences trying to figure out the perfection behind the simplicity. It just works. This book is very technical about surfing and about the surfing science of waves. That can get a little tedious at times.
I read this book as a story about a boy growing up in a different time who was lucky enough to find a true, deep passion for something. I wish in many ways that my boys could grow up with the freedom that shaped William Finnegan (although he says the lack of parental oversight was pretty shocking in hindsight). I also loved the adventurous traveling spirit of this book and the details about Finnegan as a writer and journal keeper. The book actually inspired me to start journaling again. About my landlocked life in suburban Colorado as the aging mother of two boys. But whatever, the inspiration remains.
I read this book as a story about a boy growing up in a different time who was lucky enough to find a true, deep passion for something. I wish in many ways that my boys could grow up with the freedom that shaped William Finnegan (although he says the lack of parental oversight was pretty shocking in hindsight). I also loved the adventurous traveling spirit of this book and the details about Finnegan as a writer and journal keeper. The book actually inspired me to start journaling again. About my landlocked life in suburban Colorado as the aging mother of two boys. But whatever, the inspiration remains.
nickharrison's review against another edition
5.0
One of my all time favourites. Bill is a total badass with a zest for life and true gift for writing about it. His adventures are a reminder that the story arc of life can be varied and unexpected. Anyone who has dabbled in surfing understands the power it holds to make one feel tiny and infinite at the same time. Reading this book filled me with a similar sense of wonder, and for that alone I give it 5 stars. Of course, that doesn’t take stock of the Pulitzer-level writing, which is every bit deserving of its accolades.
emilyrosegorey's review against another edition
4.0
This was my first audiobook. There’s no denying Bill is an excellent writer. I was in it for the non-surfing portions which is the minority (obviously given this is a book about surfing). Overall enjoyed it and it would be curious to try his other books