Jours barbares - Une vie de surf by William Finnegan

Jours barbares - Une vie de surf

William Finnegan

599 pages first pub 2015 (editions)

nonfiction memoir travel adventurous informative reflective slow-paced

Description

Bien plus qu'un sport, le surf est un art de vivre. D'Hawa la Californie, William Finnegan grandit entre le paradis et l'enfer des vagues. Gamin aventureux, il devient crivain, reporter de guerre et traque les spots aux quatre coins du globe. De l...

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Community Reviews Summary of 1,316 reviews

Moods

adventurous 93%
reflective 67%
inspiring 50%
informative 46%
funny 21%
relaxing 17%
challenging 11%
emotional 11%
lighthearted 8%
hopeful 5%
tense 3%

Pace

slow 50%
medium 46%
fast 3%

Average rating

4.13

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