Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Barbarian Days

William Finnegan

500 pages first pub 2015 (editions)

nonfiction memoir travel adventurous informative reflective slow-paced
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Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He ...

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