A review by sabrinacabrera
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

Did not finish book.

this did not have to be 400+ pages. at several points in every chapter my brain started to fog from the endless stream of dialogue. 

i appreciate Finnegan’s painter-like storytelling and how well he captured his surfing adventures in different coastlines around the world, and for most of it it felt like i was there chasing swells with him. 

but damn. i wasn’t really sure when it was ever gonna end.