lilylikesbooks's review against another edition
4.0
“I felt the weight of unmapped worlds, unborn language. This was what I was chasing: not the exotic, but a broad-beamed understanding of what is what.”
“Still, something beckoned.”
“Still, something beckoned.”
hannahmadden's review against another edition
5.0
This makes me want to leave behind my ~structured~ life to be a surf bum
rch's review against another edition
adventurous
emotional
informative
inspiring
relaxing
medium-paced
5.0
amckinnon114's review against another edition
adventurous
funny
informative
inspiring
tense
medium-paced
4.75
kellyroberson's review against another edition
4.0
Meditative and complex, a road trip book told through the lens of a life lived in pursuit of a wave. Lethargic at times but lyrically done.
dkpnw's review against another edition
3.0
My friend hyped this up so much that I ended up being a little disappointed, but I enjoyed it for the most part.
A little high on white male energy, despite some refreshing flashes of reflection and self-awareness. If you come from a marginalized identity and AREN'T interested in surfing, idk how much you're missing.
A little high on white male energy, despite some refreshing flashes of reflection and self-awareness. If you come from a marginalized identity and AREN'T interested in surfing, idk how much you're missing.
corrine's review against another edition
adventurous
informative
inspiring
reflective
medium-paced
4.5